Seams & structure for knitting a summer top.

I know a lot of my customers don't like knitting seamed garments. And honestly it's not what I myself gravitate to!

However, for the Phoebe Top, I decided that seaming was a non-negotiable. Here’s why:

Knitting with summer yarn

During the summer, many of us will opt for silk or plant based fibers because y’all, it’s HOT. And of course we want to be cool. I totally get it. This is why I knit my first Phoebe Top sample out if silk.

There are some important caveats that come with knitting with these sorts of fibers. 

Because of the lack of crimp and recovery in these fibers, when they stretch out they’re going to stay that way.

No amount of blocking or re-blocking will make them shrink back. 

These fibers also weigh more for the amount of space they take up, and will kinda sink and drape and open up and get longer over time when hanging on a body.

This means that these types of garments will benefit from additional structure to hold up the weight of the fabric itself. 

Fit features that work better with seams

That’s the first and main reason why the Phoebe Top has seams. Those seams will provide additional support and structure that the garment hangs off of and will help it last a long time and keep its shape.

After all, it’s a classic sort of garment and we want our hard work to last! 

In the Phoebe Top, there’s the additional problem of having optional bust darts.

Bust darts are critical for close fit garments like this because they provide room just where you need it.

Working back and forth halfway into an in-the-round garment can be a little tricky for the brain to keep track of, and in this case you’re doing it during cable texture!

For that reason, I think it’s a little easier to work it flat and then when you complete bust darts, it’s a little easier to keep going on the stitch pattern.

You won’t have to worry about the cable patterning or row counting on the back at all when worked this way. To me, a seamed garment pattern is actually easier to follow along because I only have to track a small piece and fewer shaping instructions at a time! 

By the way, the Phoebe top features TWO front pieces—one ‘straight’ sized one and one ‘curvy’ one for those who have larger busts.

Both views feature a wider front piece than back, BUT the “curvy” view is even wider than the “straight” one by a bit. This view is the one that also comes with bust darts. 

The results are a beautiful summer top

My hope is that by offering these options, you’ll have a figure-hugging top that clings in all the right places.

You deserve a tank top that isn’t saggy in the shoulders and armhole just because you had to size up to accommodate breasts. 

I hope you all enjoyed this little peek into my brain & how I think about grading my patterns and designing.

The pattern itself is quite simple to knit up, truly. One of my simplest set of instructions in a while.