Directional Pullover - Knitting Pattern (PDF)

Yarn Selection

Hinterland Yarn’s Range (50% Canadian Rambouillet, 50% alpaca, 198 yards / 183 meters / 112 grams). 

Use a lofty worsted weight yarn that achieves gauge. Swatch the colorwork and the stockinette to make sure the fabric is what you want in this garment. 

The sample yarn is woolen spun, which means that it is airy and lofty and will not create too much drag in the oversized body. 

Some suitable yarn substitutions include Knitpicks Wool of the Andes, Knitpicks Simply Wool, Harrisville Highland, Honer Och Eir Nutiden. 

Yardage

Please note that bust darts will add additional yardage, noted in Bust Darts (Appendix).

Main Color (MC)

6 (7, 7, 8) (8, 9, 9) (10, 11, 11) skeins of ‘Snow’ OR 1120 (1210, 1320, 1430) (1550, 1650, 1770) (1870, 1990, 2110) yards / 1020 (1100, 1200, 1300) (1410, 1500, 1610) (1700, 1810, 1920) meters 

Contrast Color (CC)

1 (1, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) (2, 2, 2) skeins of ‘Truffle’ OR 190 (195, 220, 240) (250, 260, 280) (290, 310, 330) yards / 170 (180, 200, 220) (230, 240, 250) (260, 280, 300) meters

Size Selection

Sizes A (B, C, D) (E, F, G) (H, I, J) to fit actual upper bust measurements of 31 (34.25, 37.5, 40.75) (44, 47.25, 50.5] (53.75, 57, 60.25)” / 77.5 (85.5, 94, 102) (110, 118, 126.5) (134.5, 142.5, 150.5) cm.

Finished garment circumference: 39 (42.75, 47, 50.75) (55, 58.75, 63) (66.75, 71, 74.75)” / 97.5 (107, 117.5, 127) (137.5, 147, 157.5) (167, 177.5, 187) cm.

This garment was graded for an oversized fit at 8.75” / 20.5 cm positive ease at the full bust. It was graded for full bust measurements of 30 (34, 38, 42) [46, 50, 54] (58, 62, 66)” / 76 (86.5, 96.5, 106.5) [117, 127, 137] (147.5, 157.5, 167.5) cm. 

Select a size based on the intended wearer’s actual upper chest measurement.  The front of the finished garment is 0 (0, 0.5, 1.5) (1, 2, 2.25) (2.25, 2.75, 3.75)” / 0 (0, 1, 3.5) (2.5, 4.5, 6) (6, 7, 9.5) cm wider than the back to accommodate bust tissue. Short row bust shaping is available.

The designer is wearing Size B. Their measurements: 32.5” / 82.5 upper bust and 34” / 86.5 cm full bust, with 11” / 28 cm upper arm.

Choosing a Cup Size (Bust Darts)

This pattern includes instructions for short-row shaping for breasts. They add a wedge to the front of the garment to add length. To choose a cup size, measure the intended wearer’s body from the top of the shoulder to the underbust line in the back and the front. This may require help from a second person. Be sure that the back and the front underbust points are parallel to the ground. It may be helpful to tie a piece of yarn or string around the underbust point so that the measurement is consistent.

Subtract the back length from the front length, then subtract 2” / 5 cm from this number (because the pattern accommodates a 2” difference already). The remaining difference is how much you need to add. Each subsequent cup size adds 1” / 2.5 cm.

It’s better to have slightly too few short rows than slightly too many. If you are in between or unsure, choose one cup size smaller.

Cup Size 1: Adds 1” / 2.5 cm

Cup Size 2: Adds 1.75” / 5.5 cm

Cup Size 3: Adds 3” / 7.5 cm 

Cup Size 4: Adds 4” / 10 cm

Cup Size 5: Adds 5” / 12.5 cm

Every cup size added will add 30 (30, 40, 40) (40, 40, 50) (50, 50, 50) yards / meters to the yardage.

Gauge

17 sts and 25 rows/rounds = 4 x 4” / 10 x 10 cm in Stockinette stitch worked flat/in the round using Needle A

17 sts and 25 rows/rounds = 4 x 4” / 10 x 10 cm in colorwork pattern using Needle B

Needles

A: Main Fabric: US 7 / 4.5 mm in the following lengths: 32-60” / 80-150 cm, and DPN’s 

B: Colorwork Fabric: US 8 / 5.0 mm in the following lengths: 32-60” / 80-150 cm, and DPN’s

C: Ribbing: US 6 / 4.0 mm in the following lengths: 32-60” / 80-150 cm, 20” / 50 cm, and DPN’s

D: Tubular Bind-Off: US 5 / 3.75 mm in the following lengths: 32-60” / 80-150 cm, 20” / 50 cm, and DPN’s

Spare needles in any size US7 or smaller.